Following another Suite 101 article which provides details on how to get to the Cathedral of Girona and the nearby area, this report offers information on what is to be seen in the Cathedral museum and some unusual treasures that it houses.
Inside the Cathedral of Girona
Visitors can choose whether to enter the cloisters or the cathedral first. Upon entering the cathedral a strange sensation is created by the sudden and absolute darkness. It takes a few moment for visitors to get accustomed to it.
The Gothic nave of the cathedral is the widest in the world; it gives a spacial expansiveness that takes one's breath away.
On either side, a series of altarpieces and chapels adorn the cathedral; these were built and added from different periods. It is impossible to observe any details due to the darkness and the locked rejas which prevent curious visitors from potentially damaging the sacred pieces.
The most impressive section is the main altar. Travellers can observe the simple grace of the episcopal chair, called Charlemagne's Chair (11th century), raised high above though half hidden by the altar stone. The chair contains an impressive relief work at the back which can be seen clearly when one walks around.
Visitors will find a lot of objects paying honour to Charlemagne in Girona, because historically the King freed the city from Moorish invasion and Girona was annexed into the Frankish King's territory officially in 785.
At the Cloisters of the Cathedral of Girona
The cloisters are cool and charming, though they are surrounded by sepulchres which constantly remind visitors of their mortality. A fountain at one corner with its soothing sound of tinkling water calms travellers' mind; such tranquillity is further enhanced by pigeons flying across the courtyard, the wings of which leave soft echoes. It is an excellent place for resting and for contemplation.
The audio guide explains the narratives etched on the pillars and the objects that decorate different galleries of the cloisters.
Two staircases lead visitors up to an exhibition room for the liturgical apparel. The sumptuously embroidered vestments from over centuries are displayed with the help of headless mannequins which crowd the whole room. After walking through the room visitors can descend from the other end and land on the cloisters once again.
At one of the window sills, an ancient sculpture of an old man sitting on a chair is most interesting, but unfortunately no information is given on it.
Girona Cathedral Treasures
The cathedral boasts of its treasures. Besides the magnificent vestments, directly opposite the ticket office is the Chapel of Hope, which contains the cathedral treasures. Though the cathedral was built originally on a mosque, very few traces are left of the Moorish rule over Girona which lasted for sixty years in the eighth century
Readers of Stanley Lane-Poole's Moors in Spain are aware of a casket that donned the high altar of the cathedral. No longer sitting awkwardly on a Christian altar, it is now placed among other treasures of the cathedral. This is a much better arrangement for visitors who can see closely the exquisite motifs of Moorish art. It belonged to Hisham II, and was thought to be a gift for the Bishop of Girona but it is now suspected that it actually proceeded from the loot of Cordoba in 1010. Two other less imposing Moorish caskets are on exhibition in the third room.
The star of the treasures is undoubtedly the Tapestry of Creation. It is housed in the last room all by itself in dim light. It is surmised to be a work in the second half of the eleventh century and no later than the twelfth.
That would lead to the end of the visit. A small amount of souvenirs is sold beside the ticket office, but except the guide books which may be of interest to some, the rest is of the usual stock.
Visit to the Cathedral of Girona
When coming out from the cathedral, visitors can walk over to the other façade of the cathedral, which is situated at the Plaça dels Apòstols. Its construction in Gothic style is of marked contrast to the other Baroque façade.
The wide nave, the unusual treasures, the charming cloisters allow travellers to spend an agreeable afternoon in this unassuming city. Read further on for some suggestions of restaurants nearby. Another guide reviews several restaurants in Girona.
References
Lane-Poole, Stanley. The Moors in Spain. London: Unwin, 1887.
Sureda i Jubany, Marc. Girona Cathedral. Translated by Steve Cedar. Madrid: Aldeasa, 2005.
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